Elon Musk’s Starship, the largest and most powerful rocket ever built, has successfully completed its 11th test flight with green lights across the board.
The mission included ocean landings for both the Booster and Starship upper stage, deployment of dummy payloads in orbit, an engine re-light during the coast phase, and a full test of Starship’s heat-shield tiles during re-entry.
Check out SpaceX’s video of Flight 11 launch and landings. Credit: SpaceX
Following on from the success of flight 10, flight 11 used a previously flown Booster fitted with 24 flight-proven Raptor engines. As Starship is designed for multiple re-flights, this marks another important step in proving the system’s reusability.
Flight 11 is also the final outing for the Block 2 Starship (upper stage) and Booster (lower stage) hardware, as SpaceX transitions to the upgraded Block 3 versions. Block 3 will incorporate refinements from earlier tests, and a launch could occur before the end of the year.
Flight 11’s profile looked similar to Flight 10. Credit: SpaceX
The flight followed a similar plan to flight 10, including offshore landings for both stages. With three successful Booster catches already achieved using its giant “Mechazilla” catch tower, SpaceX avoided risking damage to its main launch pad this time. Future catch tests will use the Block 3 vehicles and the newly built launch tower.
A key change this time was a new landing burn profile, using five engines during the divert phase instead of three. This tested finer trajectory control and provided extra redundancy in case of engine shutdowns.
Although some heat-shield tiles were lost during re-entry, there were few other visible issues, unlike the engine skirt damage seen on Starship 37 during flight 10.
SpaceX now has another treasure trove of data to analyse as it prepares the Block 3 Starship and finalises configuration of its new Launch Pad 2 at Starbase, Boca Chica, Texas. Congratulations to the SpaceX team on another major milestone!
I have previously written about choosing a portable solar panel and reviewed both fixed and portable solar panels, but until now, I have never reviewed what is commonly referred to in Australia as a solar blanket. Now, I’ve tested the OptiSolex 440W SolarBag and can give you the positives and the negatives.
As a quick refresher, a fixed solar panel is usually mounted in an aluminium frame and is typically positioned horizontally on the roof of a Caravan or 4WD. A portable panel is rigid but folds up and includes a kickstand to angle it towards the sun more effectively. A blanket also folds up, but is more flexible in construction and lacks an included mechanism to point in the sun’s direction.
I have previously demonstrated that angling a panel towards the sun, rather than keeping it horizontal, can increase output by up to 50%. The time of year and latitude of your location will also affect the output of your panel in full sun. For example, winter in Tasmania has a far lower output than summer in Cairns.
How much do solar blankets cost compared to panels?
Broadly speaking, here’s how much you’re looking at for common types of solar products:
A fixed solar panel for an RV will cost you $300-$600 and weighs approximately 20kg
A portable panel costs $1,300 and weighs around 15kg
Not only is the OptiSolex great value, but it is also portable and weighs significantly less. When you have to move panels around, weight counts, as does the cumulative total of all the stuff you put in your RV or caravan. The folded size is 54 x 44 x 12 cm, and the operational size is 170 x 160 cm.
Solar blanket folded. Image: Angus Jones.
The OptiSolex has no built-in stand but comes with two carry straps, which, when combined with the four supplied D shackles, allow for some mounting options. You can lie it on the ground or on the bonnet/front window of your car, or use your bush skills to hang it up from tent poles.
Having your panel in full sun all day is key to maximising your solar charge. Movable panels mean you can easily adjust their position to avoid shade. I was surprised to find that the blanket tested at 10 AM in Sydney during September yielded 280W when lying flat, versus 300W when angled towards the sun. That was only a 7% difference.
At midday, that difference with the sun overhead no longer existed. Remember, just because a panel says it can do 400W does not mean that is what you will get. In winter, I expect to receive 50% (200W in this example) of the rated output of my panels at midday.
To charge a battery from a solar panel, you need an MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracker). Most caravans and portable power stations already have an MPPT, allowing the OptiSolex to plug directly into an MC4 connector or adapter cable.
OptiSolex offers a kit that includes an S1 Controller (MPPT), enabling direct connection to batteries. The S1 will automatically adjust to 12, 24, or 48V batteries, and the unit is IP68 waterproof. The unit is highly efficient and is 1/6 the size of comparable products, so it easily fits in the solar blanket pocket.
OptiSolex 440W SolarBag split in two. Image: Angus Jones.
Splitting the OptiSolex SolarBag in two
A feature that further enhances this solar solution is the ability to unzip the centre of the blanket, creating two 220W solar blankets. It provides more options to charge smaller devices, chase the sun, and be in two places at once.
Each 220W panel also features three USB ports (2 x USB-A and 1 x USB-C, up to 45W), allowing you to charge smartphones and other devices directly from the panel. An iPhone can be charged to 80% in 45 minutes. Each 220W module has its own set of MC4 cables, which can be used to charge individually or connected in series to increase the overall charging ability. Always check the device you will charge to ensure it can accept a 440W input of 42V or a 220W input of 21V at 11.1A.
MC4 cables connected in series. Image: Angus Jones.
The OptiSolex is waterproof, has a strong construction and can be carried on your back like a backpack. This, combined with a three-year warranty, gives you peace of mind when using it to power your off-grid setup. At least assuming the sun is shining. You will get some power when it is cloudy, but not much.
Reading the fine print, I discovered that OptiSolex only recommends a 2m extension cable. In my experience, 5m is the minimum distance to avoid shade and maximise output during the day. This cable must be purchased separately, and I recommend using a heavier gauge cable for longer runs to minimise voltage loss. The MC4 cables built into the panels themselves do work, but again, I would have liked to have seen these a little longer, as they only just reach the extremity of the panel.
My takeaway from this product is the weight saving. I have used 200W panels in the past, but I found them to be insufficient. 400W panels are heavy, and the OptiSolex SolarBag addresses this issue. Combined with the excellent performance whilst lying horizontal on the ground, I have found a much better solution for my setup.
Over a few short years, DJI has become a major player in the video production space. It wouldn’t be a stretch to say that it practically owns the handheld stabiliser, or gimbal, market, and it’s developed an industry-respected ecosystem of pro video tools, accessories and even cameras.
With its Ronin line of handheld stabilisers now in their fourth generation, I wanted to see how the DJI RS4 would complement our video production needs.
For context, here at GadgetGuy we have a YouTube channel with over 200K subscribers, so we create weekly long-form and social videos for both our audience and partners. With our A and B cameras, which are Canon EOS C70 and C80s, we typically use a tripod. However, for more dynamic, moving footage we’ve relied on a DJI Pocket 3, which is a lightweight camera with an integrated gimbal. Thanks to the RS4, we wanted to start using our main cameras for dynamic footage as well.
What can the DJI RS4 do?
Apart from being a 3-axis gimbal, some of the standout features of the RS4 include:
3 kg payload capacity
Fourth-generation RS stabilisation algorithm for smoother footage
Second-generation automated axis locks for faster setup
Native vertical shooting without extra accessories
Bluetooth shutter and zoom control for compatible cameras
1.8-inch OLED touchscreen with auto-lock
12-hour runtime and 18W PD fast-charging battery grip
Compatible with DJI RS accessories and the Ronin app
Left and right views of the DJI RS4 with extension handle and Canon EOS C80. Credit: Valens Quinn
Balancing and setup
From the start, we knew we’d be pushing the DJI RS4 close to its limits with the weight of the Canon C80 plus a lens. All up, and with some rigging, the system weighed about 2.7 kilograms, which is close to the RS4’s 3kg limit. The Canon C80’s tall and wide body also meant limited clearance around the three axis arms.
For most people, you’d likely use a smaller camera such as the Sony FX3, which is ideal for the DJI RS4. Canon’s C80 currently has limited compatibility, meaning control cables for functions like focus or record start/stop via the integrated buttons don’t work. Hopefully, the C80 will be added to the compatibility list soon.
Despite this, setting up the camera on the DJI RS4 was surprisingly easy. The base plate attaches quickly, and a handy guide helps you position it correctly.
The second-generation automated axis locks are a real timesaver. They let you lock or unlock each axis while adjusting balance, and once you power down or enter sleep mode, the system automatically locks. With a heavy camera like the C80, this prevents it from swinging into an arm.
One of 3 auto-locks for each axis arm, which are teflon-coated for easier positioning. Credit: Valens Quinn
The Teflon-coated arms make balancing smoother, though the pan arm was a little tight. A fine-tuning dial on the tilt base allows precise adjustments, and this is especially useful when swapping lenses or using a zoom. You can easily rebalance with a quick turn of the dial.
The tilt arm has also been extended by 8.5mm from the DJI RS3 to accommodate longer camera and lens combinations.
Specifications: DJI Ronin RS4
Specification
Detail
Payload
Up to 3 kg (6.6 lb)
Gimbal weight (body)
Approx. 1,066 g
Grip weight
Approx. 203 g
Battery / runtime
~ 2.5 h charge (18 W PD) / ~ 12 h runtime
Max rotation speed
Pan / Tilt / Roll = 360°/s
Mechanical range
Pan: 360° continuous
Tilt: –112° to +214°
Roll: –95° to +240°
Dimensions (folded)
245 × 255 × 75 mm (excl. camera & grip)
Dimensions (unfolded)
370 × 191 × 189 mm (with grip)
Gimbal modes
Pan Follow, Pan & Tilt Follow, FPV (customisable), 3D Roll 360, Portrait
Creative / software modes
Panorama, Timelapse / Motionlapse, Track, Force Mobile, ActiveTrack, Virtual Joystick
Connectivity & ports
Bluetooth 5.1, USB-C, RSA port, NATO rails, Cold shoe
Accessory compatibility
DJI RS series accessories (focus motor, image transmitter, handles)
DJI Ronin Image Transmitter (HD video + remote control)
DJI Focus Pro Motor (sold separately)
Battery grips: BG21 (standard), BG70 (high-capacity)
The supplied mounting plate should work with most cameras, offering both 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch screws, and the RS4 comes with a sturdy tripod mount that screws into the battery handle.
One standout feature is the ability to switch from landscape to vertical shooting via a quick release. The base plate can be remounted vertically using the same stub, secured by a locking screw and button.
Unfortunately, the Canon C80 is too large to use comfortably in vertical orientation without hitting one of the axis arms, but it’s still possible. Smaller cameras should fit perfectly well and make this feature invaluable, especially with vertical content now so essential.
The base plate in both horizontal (left) and vertical position (right). Credit: Valens Quinn
Controls and touchscreen
The RS4’s control system is refreshingly straightforward, which is exactly what you want when focusing on your shot. There’s a 1.8-inch OLED touchscreen for viewing gimbal modes and adjusting settings.
The main controls include a focus wheel, trigger, and joystick. Sliding switches on either side of the screen allow quick, tactile adjustments, such as toggling the joystick between zoom or tilt, or selecting one of the three gimbal modes.
The modes include Pan Follow (PF), Pan Tilt Follow (PTF) and FPV (First Person View), plus a customisable 3D Roll 360 mode. The trigger can also be assigned to engage FPV mode.
The OLED touchscreen and joystick control (left) and the handy dedicated buttons for switching between gimbal modes (right). Credit: Valens Quinn
The joystick makes it easy to pan or tilt smoothly while the gimbal rests on its tripod. Through the Ronin app, you can access preset features like Motionlapse, Track and Panorama, and these are great for stylised shots, though I didn’t use them.
The screen also has an auto-lock feature to prevent accidental touches and dims to reduce power use.
Shooting experience
Even with my setup weighing over 2.7 kg, the RS4’s motors delivered plenty of torque and stability. The three-axis system provides full 360° movement, and I mainly used Pan Tilt Follow and FPV modes. These worked beautifully for starting wide on a subject, pushing in, tilting towards an object in their hand, then pulling back, all with fluid motion.
It was also excellent for walk-and-talk shots where I moved backwards with the subject. Even rounding corners, the footage stayed smooth and natural. Dramatic tilt-down moves also felt well controlled, with no unwanted drift from the camera’s weight.
Using the included extended handle provided extra leverage for low-angle shots and prevented arm fatigue, and I would have suffered without this.
The attachable extension handle was a lifesaver for heavier payloads (left), especially as I needed to add a counterbalance (right) which added weight. Credit: Valens Quinn
The fourth-generation stabilisation algorithm is designed to handle shaking from running or vehicle movement. I didn’t notice any issues, it just worked quietly in the background to deliver smooth results.
While I had to use a counterweight to balance my C80, the RS4 handled it well. However, for perfect balance without added weights, the RS4 Pro would be the better choice thanks to its longer arms and higher 4.5 kg payload.
The green ‘balance’ symbol is a joy to see (left) and the focus/zoom wheel would have been great if DJI was compatible with the Canon EOS C80 (right) Credit: Valens Quinn
Battery performance
Battery life was quite good. The 3,000 mAh battery is integrated into the handle and rated for up to 12 hours, or around 3.5 hours of continuous operation, according to DJI. It charges in about 2.5 hours via USB-C.
Given my heavier setup, I averaged around three hours before the battery ran low. For longer shoots, DJI offers the RS BG70 High Capacity Battery Grip, which extends runtime to nearly 30 hours.
The standard sized battery handle is included (left) and this also screws into the tripod base (left). Credit: Valens Quinn
Pro connectivity and ports
The RS4 can leverage DJI’s growing professional ecosystem, offering a wide range of add-ons and connectivity options. It includes Bluetooth and USB-C for linking to your camera, providing features like shutter and zoom control.
You can also pair it with the DJI Focus Pro Motor and LiDAR system, controllable via the focus wheel or joystick. The extended handle includes an RSA communication port for adding accessories, and there’s a mount under the pan arm for attaching the DJI Ronin Image Transmitter.
Accessory ports
Ronin Series Accessories (RSA) / NATO port
1/4″-20 mounting hole
Cold shoe
Video transmission port (USB-C)
RSS camera control port (USB-C)
Focus motor port (USB-C)
External handle (left) and it all fits into the DJI case (right). Credit: Valens Quinn
DJI RS4 vs RS4 Pro
While the RS4 is feature-rich and connects seamlessly with DJI’s pro ecosystem, the RS4 Pro is aimed at professional crews and larger setups. Here’s what it adds:
Supports up to 4.5 kg with extended arm length
Second-generation LiDAR focusing system
Additional RSA port
Faster 1.5-hour charging
DJI Transmission support
Carbon fibre arms (vs aluminium alloy)
More mounting options – vehicle mount, Steadicam, etc.
Costs AU$1,299 vs $799
Should you buy the DJI RS4?
I was impressed with the RS4’s evolution from the original Ronin gimbal I used years ago. It’s smoother, more powerful and far easier to balance, with quick transitions between portrait and landscape modes. Its capabilities expand further with DJI’s professional accessory range.
I am disappointed that DJI doesn’t yet support the Canon C80 (and temporarily dropped C70 support), but both can still be used manually.
For my use, the RS4 works well enough, though the RS4 Pro makes more sense for heavier cameras like the C80. That said, at AU$1,299 for the Pro versus AU$799 for the RS4, it’s a steep price jump if you don’t need the extra headroom.
For anyone using lighter setups, the RS4 is a kit bag essential — a fully featured, reliable, and refined stabiliser system for content creators and videographers alike.
DJI RS4 Camera Stabilizer
A very capable camera stabilising system that's easy to set-up, use and has many clever features including a quick vertical shooting mode and advanced stabilisation.
Performance
8.5
Features
8
Value for money
8
Ease of use
9
Design
8.5
Positives
Smooth responsive stabilisation, powerful torque and 3 modes to choose from
Auto-locking feature makes balancing and general use much easier
Vertical shooting mode is quick to configure
Straight-forward controls including dedicated switches and easy-to-see touch screen display
DJI has along history in making quality gimbals and this shows with the RS4
Connects to DJI's pro ecosystem of focus rings, LiDAR and transmitters
Negatives
Needs to add Canon EOS C70 and C80 compatibility
Nice to have slightly longer axis arms to accommodate larger cameras
I was very pleased to receive the Solix C300 DC power station for testing because it has no AC output. It cannot run a household appliance, unlike all the other power stations I have reviewed in the past. Initially, you may see this as a negative, but the removal of AC power reduces the weight, size and price of this power station.
Having a 288Wh battery is comparable to small power stations available from other brands — including Anker, which does have a sister unit, the C300 power station — that all include AC output. A 288Wh battery will not last long with an appliance drawing a reasonable wattage, such as a TV, which lasts about three hours. You also lose capacity in the process of changing DC power from the batteries to AC power.
What I see as the real advantage of this product is in its ability to power USB-C supported products. USB-C is the new standard, and the Anker can provide power from four sockets, two of which are rated at 140W, one at 100W, and one at 15W. There are also two USB-A sockets rated at 15W and a cigarette socket rated at 120W. The total output of all seven sockets cannot exceed 300W at once.
When travelling, being able to power my devices with DC is the most economical. My wife’s PC, with a full battery, draws 20 to 30 watts, and my laptop with a discrete graphics card draws up to 75 watts. To charge a smartphone quickly, you will need 20 – 60 watts, depending on the brand. Drones, camera torches, and other devices will all charge comfortably from this DC power station. The cig socket can easily power a camping fridge, drawing around 40W.
Can I run a hairdryer? No, but similar-sized power stations will not really run one either, and the battery would be used up in around five minutes. If you want to do that, buy a larger power station.
Putting the ‘portable’ in portable power station
The Anker Solix C300DC weighs only 2.8 kg, making it easy to carry in a backpack for a hike. The size difference is evident in this image, which compares it to the Bluetti Elite 100 V2 power station with the same size battery, with the Anker measuring 12.5 x 12 x 20 cm.
Same battery capacity, very different size. Bluetti Elite 100 V2 (left), and the Anker Solix C300 DC (right). Image: Angus Jones.
A 140W USB-C to USB-C cable is the only accessory found in the box. This cable can be used to charge the C300 or to draw power to charge an attached device, such as a phone. To charge the power station from the mains, you will need a PD USB-C wall charger, which can be purchased separately. The ideal model is rated at 140W, but a 20W phone charger will work, albeit at a much slower charging rate. Two 140W chargers (280W) can be plugged in to deliver an 80% charge in 1 hour.
I duplicated this with two 140W outputs, but when I used a 60W charger and a 100W charger, both plugged in, only the 100W charger was accepted (not 160W). I am assuming both chargers need to be the same wattage. If you need to buy a 140W charger, keep in mind that they retail for approximately $120, so take this into account when purchasing. If weight and size are no issue, the Anker C300 AC model sells for $399 and includes a mains power cord for charging.
Powering the C300 can also be done through an optional cigarette lighter car plug or by using a 100W solar panel, both of which take around 2.5 hours. I would have liked to have seen support for 200W solar panels, which are much more common but heavier.
A pop-up light with three brightness settings, drawing less than 3W, makes the Anker a handy tool at a campsite, not only for charging your devices but also for providing light at night.
C300 DC lightC300 DC light (left) and the Anker app (right). Images: Angus Jones.
For those who want to monitor their power station, Anker offers an app that connects to the power station via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, allowing you to track input and output power by socket and remotely control the cigarette lighter socket and light. Similar information and control are available on the unit itself.
Anker Solix C300 DC power station price and availability
The Anker Solix C300 DC power station is available from Anker for $449 (on sale for $299 at the time of writing). After testing, it has earned its rightful place in my camping and caravanning setup, and will help keep our USB-C devices charged on the go.
Writing for GadgetGuy brings me great pleasure; testing and learning about technology have been a lifelong pursuit. Another passion of mine is scuba diving. When the opportunity to combine the two comes along, that is a bonus. So, I was very excited to take a look at the Suunto Eon Core dive computer.
I learnt to dive long before the home computer was even a thing, and by coincidence, the internet was first invented when I did my first scuba certification. A dive computer is a key tool for scuba diving. It measures depth and time as its primary function. These two factors determine how long you can safely stay underwater.
There are more factors and functions, but the deeper you go and the longer you stay, the more nitrogen builds up in your blood. If you exceed limits, including surfacing too fast, you end up with ‘the bends’, which, as a result of bubbles forming in your blood and tissues, cause joint pain, rashes and in severe cases death.
Image: Angus Jones.
Where once you used a watch and a waterproof plastic table of times and depth, a dive computer does all the hard work for you to keep you out of harm’s way.
Testing the depths with the Suunto Eon Core
In 1987, Suunto produced its first dive computer, and I have dived with a Suunto computer for the last 10 years. The dive computer, like smartphones, has advanced significantly in this time. Now, certain models will automatically sync with your smartphone and the internet, automatically logging your dives and storing your data on the cloud.
Although a dive computer can be integrated within a watch you would wear on your wrist every day, the Eon has a 6cm screen and is a dedicated scuba diving device. The large screen allows for more information to be displayed, making it easier for you and your dive buddy to read. When using a watch-sized dive computer, I have enough trouble reading my own display, let alone trying to read another diver’s watch.
The information that is displayed is customisable to your preferences, and also whether you have what is known as air integration. Although I did not test it, as I did not have the wireless tank pressure POD, a device can be attached to your air tank that sends air pressure information to your computer, allowing you to view the pressure without a connected hose.
It will also calculate, based on how fast you are breathing and your depth, approximately how many minutes of air you have left. This, combined with a calculation of how long you can stay down to avoid the bends (no decompression limit), gives you two time countdowns before you need to return to the surface, with the lowest time being your limit.
Record of a previous dive. Image: Angus Jones.
Other information the Eon provides is a compass to help you navigate, water temperature, depth, maximum depth reached, dive time, time of day, battery and an indicator to ensure you do not come up too quickly.
The Eon fits comfortably on your wrist, and a long, if not too long, strap ensures you can wear it on even the thickest wetsuit. The 8 x 6 cm device protrudes 2cm, so it does not get in your way when putting on your BCD (Buoyancy Control Device). A mineral crystal lens will resist scratching. Three large buttons on the side allow you to scroll information on your dive as well as customise settings before the dive, even with thick gloves on. The Suunto comes with a USB-A magnetic charge cable, which delivers around 19 hours of dive time.
A Suunto smartphone app connects to the dive computer via Bluetooth, downloading up to 200 hours of stored dives. Once uploaded, you can add additional information and even photos associated with each dive. This information can also be shared with friends. The app facilitates software updates and can also be used to customise the screen and modes on your computer.
If you are into more technical diving, the Eon will support up to 10 gas mixes as well as rebreather.
Information you see on a dive in gauge mode. Image: Angus Jones.
Using the Suunto Eon, I appreciated the large display and buttons, as well as the ability to set a level of conservativity. This means that as I get older, I can easily read and use the computer, as well as automatically set the computer to limit my diving, making my diving safer.
Speaking of which, I look back at what diving was like as a teenager and the risks we took without dive computers, and I am pleased that dive computers make the sport so much safer and stress-free. Automatic logging of dives lets you know how many dives you have done, which is important when you are asked for your experience. I must admit that I don’t know how many dives I have done, as I forgot to record them in my youth.
